Grape Production in New York
Is
There Terroir in NY?
An overview of NY geography and climate with tongue in cheek
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Grape Production in New York
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Frequently we are asked about New York terroirs. The question usually arises after a grower or winemaker has read an article extolling the virtues of French terroirs, e.g. "the fleshy opulence of the almost unctuous Burgundy wine truly reflected its patrimony and terroir." The term, terroir, has been much misunderstood in the past, and also in the present. I will not try to detract from the confusion, controversy and the fun that results from multiple definitions of terroir, but it does seem worthwhile to ask the question - "Do we have terroirs in New York?" To answer that question will require me to reveal my personal and professional understanding of the word. Fortunately, last November I was treated to a one hour lecture on the subject in French by a representative of the Appelations Board Francais (the terroir police). This greatly increased my personal level of confusion which I will attempt to share with you.
Many simple people think that terroir just means soil, a common translation of the French word into English. However, the word should convey much more. To put it simply, terroir is the result of the combined effects of a region's soil (depth, chemical composition, texture, drainage, management, etc.), the specific site characteristics (altitude, slope, exposure, prevailing winds, etc.), the viticulture (variety, rootstock, clone, training, spacing, fertilization, pruning level, amount and timing of leaf removal, etc.), the enology (type of barrel fermentation, nature of the indigenous yeast and bacteria, length of maceration, level of refinement (meaning low yield), etc.), the culture of the site (racial and religious make-up, morés, the economic and educational attainment of its peoples and the degree of annointement by the wine gods as exclusive host of knowledge and tradition regarding wine arts).
Keeping these facts in mind, one can understand that it would be presumptuous to expect to find a real terroir in our state's young and naive viticulture regions. However, as in prospecting for gold, prospectors for terroir can increase their chance of stumbling upon the real thing if they know some of the important elements which are common to regions blessed with ample terroirs. These elements include the geology, soil and meteorology of the territory. The intent of this presentation is to supply you with a few facts about New York grape regions which might help you to become a true terroirist.
The bedrocks of New York are shown above. Terroirs are often be found in association with geology, and the geology shown in figure 1 provides a basis for our state's viticultural history. Note that the parent material for at least three of the four grape regions (Lake Erie, southern Finger Lakes and Long Island) consists of acidic, shale rocks or deposits derived from such rocks. Native American varieties are uniquely adapted to acid soils, and thus found a home in those regions. The bedrocks of the last region, the Hudson Valley, are more heterogeneous as are the soils of the region. Finally, the band of limestone which forms the northern border of the Finger Lakes is responsible for the higher pH of the soil in the northern Finger Lakes. This partly explains why the lime loving vinifera varieties are being planted in that area.
Terroirs are attracted by climate and weather, and the diligent prospector should always be alert to the possibility that his region may have a climate. Table 1 illustrates two aspects of world grape growing regions, seasonal heat accumulation (degree days) and winter cold temperature. The Californians, who are convinced they have indeed found at least one or more terroirs in their state, are sure that their favorable degree day accumulation has attracted the elusive terroir. Note that, in comparison with St. Helena of the Napa Valley, our New York locations have only puny degree day accumulations, barely beating German and French locations, albeit the latter countries contain locations which have thriving terroirs of their own.
The table also illustrates a possible problem, winter cold. Our January temperatures are the lowest on the table; it may be that terroirs are snowbirds which leave our region for warmer locations in the winter time.
Of course any good terroirist will explain that simple heat accumulations do not truly reflect the preferred habitat of the terroir. The figure below illustrates the seasonal temperature profiles of three regions with very distinct, but thriving terroirs. Although quite different the California and German region have well known terroirs. It is yet to be seen if the combination found in New York will be attractive to a terroir.
Yearly average monthly maximum and minimum temperatures for Frankfurt, Germany; St. Helena, California; and Geneva, New York, illustrating difference between climate of different growing regions. Note that yearly extremes are greatest in Geneva, New York, and that St. Helena has prolonged growing and ripening periods (50° F line is base for growing degree day accumulation). Summers are long and warm (the upper white line approximates optimum temperature for photosynthesis). It also has cool nights (below 50°F) which help retain color, flavor and acidity. However, early ripening varieties would ripen in August when the night temperatures are not favorable for quality. St. Helena is noted for the quality of Cabernet Sauvignon which ripens in mid- to late-October. New York has a short but intense growing season. Varieties which ripen in September and early October experience favorable conditions for quality development, but late ripening varieties will never ripen. The German climate is more maritime than New York's. Growth starts earlier, but the summer temperatures are not so intense. Bud break and bloom are later in New York than Germany for a given variety, but harvest is at a similar time. Note that the continental climate of New York results in more extreme winter cold. That is a limit to grape production.
The data below compare the temperature profiles of Burgundy (Dijon, France) with areas where active prospecting for terroirs is occurring in New York. It can be seen that none of the New York locations really matches Dijon, but all share attributes of the Burgundy profile. Cool nights, warm but not hot days and an abrupt end to the growing season. Of course the January temperatures stand out as distinct from Burgundy. Even, the Long Island profile shows cooler January low temperatures than found in Dijon.
The precipitation bars are only given for Geneva and Dijon. They illustrate the fact that terroirs are not discouraged by summer rain, and that New York rain patterns are not too different from Dijon's. Table 2 more fully explores New York precipitation patterns. The data show that on average Riverhead has more rain than other locations, but the summer rainfall is not so high. Riverhead gets more winter precipitation, but mostly it falls as rain and does not have to be shoveled as does upstate winter precipitation. I am not sure whether that is good for the terroir, but it is good for the resident.
The final table (table 3) presents more extensive weather data. Note Riverhead's lack of stimulating extreme winter cold, its very long growing season, late fall freeze day and high temperatures during the late summer. I suspect the diligent prospector might find a terroir there, but the excessively well drained, acid soils may need to be modified to be more attractive to the terroir. The Hudson Valley has a short, but intense growing season. Prospectors will have to look carefully to avoid very cold locations which terrifies terroirs, but its proven history of red wine production shows that it can be a haven for prime terroirs. Geneva, like the rest of the state, will attract only certain terroirs which are more winter hardy and which do not require too long a season, but experience has shown that terroirs are comfortable in the region. The winter temperatures of Lake Erie (Fredonia) are attractive to terroirs, but the acid soils can prove daunting to prime terroirs. The prospector may have to provide some habitat modification to attract the best terroir.
I hope these comments are helpful, and that growers and vintners can begin to find just what kind of terroir will be comfortable in their locations. We at Geneva will try to help you attract suitable terroirs to your vineyard and winery.