Introduction to Pinot noir clonal evaluation in New York

Introduction

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There are thousands of wine grape varieties available to grape growers; however, out of all these thousands only a few are widely planted. Jancis Robinson, in her book "Vines Grapes and Wines" lists only four "classic" red wine varieties and ten "major'" ones (Table 1.) The select few share the traits of general adaptation to the local climate and soils and superior red wine quality.

Table 1. Most important quality red wine grape varieties grown in the world*

Classic Varieties

Major Varieties

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Franc

Pinot Noir

Gamay

Syrah

Grenache

Merlot

Cinsaut

Carginan

Barbera

Nebbiolo

Sangiovese

Tempranillo

Zinfandel

*Source: Robinson, Jancis, Vines Grapes and Wines Alfred A. Knopf, NY 1986

Table 1. Most important quality red wine grape varieties grown in the world*
Classic Varieties	Major Varieties
Cabernet Sauvignon	Cabernet Franc
Pinot Noir	Gamay
Syrah	Grenache
Merlot	Cinsaut
	Carginan
	Barbera
	Nebbiolo
	Sangiovese
	Tempranillo
	Zinfandel
*Source: Robinson, Jancis, Vines Grapes and Wines Alfred A. Knopf, NY 1986

One might well ask, even though we have reduced the choice from thousands to only 15, why do we spend so much time attempting to grow Pinot Noir? This is especially puzzling when, to again quote Robinson:

"... Pinot Noir is a minx of a vine. ... an exasperating
variety for growers, winemakers and winedrinkers alike.
It leads us a terrible dance, tantalizing with an 
occasional glimpse of the riches in store for those 
who persevere, yet obstinately refusing to be tamed."

In spite of its capricious reputation, Pinot Noir is the "logical" classic wine grape to consider for northern viticultural production regions; the reader should be cautioned, however, that part of the allure of the variety is the challenge it poses. For New York grape growers, that challenge is balanced by potential rewards in terms of the personal satisfaction and in the affirmation that New York is among those few places in the world where superior wines are produced.

It is also reassuring to know that compared to the other "classic" varieties, Pinot Noir is adaptable. The great, long-lived red wines from Burgundy whose value justifiy low yields, expensive winemaking, and long storage receive most of the attention, but Pinot Noir is also widely grown to make wines which meet the expectations of those who are looking for a superior, but not budget destroying, wine experience.

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