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Brassica plants belong to the mustard family, Brassicaceae.
They are also called crucifers and cole crops. This diverse family,
whose members have various edible plant parts such as roots of
radish and turnips, stems of kohlrabi, leaves of cabbage and other
leafy brassicas, and seeds of mustard and rape are consumed as
fresh, cooked or processed vegetables. Other members of this family
include broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, collards, kale,
rape and rutabaga. Many weed species are also in this family and
can harbor insect and disease pests.
Cabbage
aphid (Brevicoryne
brassica)
The primary aphid species is the cabbage aphid View
photo 1.1 whose
colonies resemble clumps of “white ashes.” They suck
plant sap, causing leaf distortion and poor growth. Cabbage aphids
are particularly difficult to control once they get in sheltered
parts of the plant, such as cabbage heads or Brussels sprouts.
Cabbage aphids can damage crops in the summer, but they tend
to be more problematic in the fall. In recent years, late season
aphid outbreaks have been increasing in fall brassica crops on
organic farms, though the reasons are not clear. Green peach
aphids are also sometimes a problem on brassica crops. They are
notorious for transmitting virus diseases, which render some
brassica crops unmarketable. The presence of live aphids, or
even dead aphids that have been parasitized, may make the product
unmarketable.
Cultural Control:
Encourage natural enemies by diversifying the habitat and their
food sources, and refraining from use of broad-spectrum pesticides.
The primary parasite of cabbage aphids in the Northeast is a
very small, black wasp, Diaeretiella rapae, which lays
its eggs inside the aphid. The parasite larva feeds inside the
aphid, turning it a bronze color and killing it. It may take
2-3 weeks from the time the parasite lays its eggs inside the
aphid until an adult parasite emerges from the dead aphid. Generally,
there is a lag period between the outbreak of aphids and control
by the parasite, so some other control should be used, but one
that does not harm the parasite. A diversified cropping system
with several potential aphid hosts can allow D. rapae to
maintain itself in an area during periods of low levels of aphid
abundance on one crop. Many other insects, such as ladybird beetles
and
Aphidoletes aphidimyza, can also be effective biological
control agents against aphids (Weeden et al. 2004).
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
-
Soap: Scout brassica plantings once or twice a week, especially
in the fall, and apply insecticidal soap sprays if aphids
are found. Do not wait until aphids reach high numbers and dense
colonies; apply when numbers are low. Repeat applications
two or three times and ensure coverage of the parts of the plant
where aphids live, including undersides of leaves and in
the buds, shoots or heads of Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage,
etc. In recent studies, soaps have been ineffective against
green peach aphid. Other studies we examined indicated 5 good,
1 fair, and 2 poor results against other aphid species.
- Rotenone is recommended in the older literature (currently,
no rotenone products are on the OMRI approved list).
- Neem products can provide some control. Based on a limited
number of studies, neem products gave good control of turnip
aphid (2 studies); fair (4) to poor (3) control of green peach
aphid; and mostly good control of other aphids (2 good, 2 fair,
1 poor). Please see the neem chapter for a discussion of the
different types of neem products.
- Summer oils (2 fair and 3 poor results) will provide some
control.
- Kaolin clay will reduce aphid populations but will leave
a white residue that may affect marketability.
Cabbage Looper (Tricholousia
ni), Diamondback
Moth (Plutella xylostella), Imported
Cabbageworm (Pieris rapae) The larvae of these
Lepidoptera (moths and butterflies) eat the leaves of plants
and may contaminate the marketable portion of brassica crops
by their presence or their fecal matter. The imported cabbageworm View
photo 1.2 is the most
common of these three, and overwinters locally throughout the Northeast
so it is generally a pest every year. It overwinters as a pupa
in crop debris, fence rows and weedy fields. The large white butterflies
of the imported cabbageworm View
photo 1.3 can easily be seen during
the day feeding on nectar from wild and cultivated crops, or moving
from plant to plant laying eggs. Adult flights are a good warning
of later potential problems on cultivated crucifers. The cabbage
looper View
photo 1.4 does not overwinter outdoors in the Northeast
and the diamondback moth’s View
photo 1.5 ability to overwinter
in northern sections is spotty. The diamondback moth and cabbage
looper are commonly carried north from southern overwintering sites
on weather fronts, but this does not occur every year. Invasions
may also arise from infested transplants, especially those from
southern areas. All three pests may produce multiple generations
each summer. Scout brassicas by searching the undersides of leaves,
so that young caterpillars and early feeding damage can be detected.
Scout especially just before head formation begins, or when marketable
leaves are small.
Cultural Controls:
- Be sure to purchase only
clean transplants or raise your own in clean greenhouse settings
in order to avoid all three species. They are seen somewhat
commonly on transplants from southern regions.
- Cruciferous weed control near crop fields is important not
only because weeds can act as an overwintering site for the
imported cabbageworm, but can also support populations of all
three pests during the crop season. In weedy fields, populations
can build to epidemic levels from one generation to the next.
- After harvesting early season brassica crops, the crop debris
should be tilled into the soil to destroy larvae and pupae
that could lead to higher populations on later brassica crops.
- Trap crops have had variable success. Trap crops are plants
that are more attractive to moths for egg laying; however one
has to be careful that populations that build up on the trap
crop do not spill over to the cash crop. See Appendix C for a
more thorough discussion on trap cropping.
- Encourage natural enemies. Several species of predatory
and parasitoid wasps, as well as some generalist predators, prey
on these caterpillars.
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
-
Spinosad can provide very good control (10 recent studies
showed good control, 3 fair and one poor).
- Bt gives some control of all three species but is best on
imported cabbageworm. Recent studies showed 21 good, 13 fair,
and 9 poor results. For fall crops, spray on the morning of a
warm day when caterpillars will be actively feeding.
- Neem products (4 good, 3 fair, and 7 poor results from recent
studies) may require several applications. Please see the neem
chapter for a discussion of the different types of neem products.
- It is best to rotate a Bt product (e.g. Bt aizawi or
Bt kurstaki)
with another insecticide with a different mode of action (e.g.
spinosad or neem) to avoid resistance development. The best
course for delaying resistance is to apply only one class (bared
on moode of action) to each insect generation. Do not mix two
insecticides.
Cabbage
Maggot (Delia radicum)
The damage is caused by the larvae of a fly that lays its eggs
at the base of the plants. The larvae feed on the roots View
photo 1.6 and the first symptom of infestation is wilting
during the day. Infested plants are stunted and often die, especially
during hot and dry conditions. Note that high soil organic matter
seems to attract cabbage maggot flies.
Cultural Control:
- Timing and avoidance - The
life cycle of the cabbage maggot is shown in View
photo 1.7. Insects overwinter as pupae, and adult
flies emerge and become active about the same time that forsythia
and yellow rocket are in bloom. More detailed emergence guidelines
can be obtained by using degree day models obtained from
your extension agent. Although there are two to three generations
a year, the first, arising from the overwintering pupae,
is the largest. Cabbage maggot eggs are very sensitive to
high soil temperatures (above 95°F) and will die if exposed
to these temperatures for several days in a row. If no mustard
family crops are planted before about July 1 and early brassica
weeds are well-controlled, cabbage root maggot pressure on
later plantings will be minimal. However, fall root crops
such as turnip, rutabaga and daikon can be damaged by later
generations of maggot fly, which are active in late August
and early September when soils are cooling down.
- Exclusion methods can be very effective. Since flies lay
their eggs on the soil around the base of the plant, placing
a barrier at the plant base will prevent egg laying. In Europe
small scale growers may use ‘circles’ of a material
(e.g. heavy cloth or felt, or a firmer substance) to block eggs
from being laid in the soil. The circle should be 5 inches in
diameter and slit to the center so that it fits tightly around
the base of the plant. Adults can also be excluded by using spunbonded
row covers. Place the row covers on at the time of seeding and
seal the edges with soil. Be sure to rotate fields to avoid flies
emerging from overwintering sites under the row cover. Plants
should also be tilled under as soon as possible after the last
harvest to minimize overwintering populations.
- Members of the Brassica family are the only hosts for cabbage
maggots, therefore destroying wild relatives will help reduce
cabbage maggot populations. This practice will also help in disease
control. However, this may also reduce potential sites for natural
enemies.
- Some growers have adopted their own methods and there may
be merit in trying such approaches. A grower in southeast PA
claims success using sticky tape reels over early brassica rows
plus foliar sprays based on the microbial product, EM5. “Effective Microorganisms” (EM)
are used in a Japanese system known as Nature Farming (Diver
1998).
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
Nematodes have shown some efficacy, but the cultural controls
(barriers and row covers) probably provide more cost effective
control.
Crucifer (Phyllotreta cruciferae) and Striped
Flea Beetle (Phyllotreta
striolata)
These small black beetles View
photo 1.8 can hop or fly from plant
to plant where they feed on leaf margins or make small holes in
leaves. Damage is most severe to seedlings; though plants can often
outgrow the damage, the harvest will be delayed. With salad greens,
kale, bunched turnips, or any harvest that includes leaves, the
damage reduces marketability or yield.
Most flea beetles do not overwinter in cultivated fields. They
spend the winter as dormant adults in leaf litter in windrows,
headlands, treelines, fencerows, etc. Adults emerge from overwintering
sites in early spring and begin feeding on the first cruciferous
weeds. Eggs are laid in soil at the base of plants and larvae feed
on the roots. A summer generation of adults emerges in late July
and August.
Cultural Control:
- Crops mulched with straw
or other organic materials appear to suffer less damage.
- The most effective control of flea beetles, however, is
often the use of spunbonded row covers to exclude the beetles.
Place the row covers on at the time of transplanting or seeding
and seal the edges with soil.
- Controlling brassica weeds can reduce flea beetle populations.
- Perimeter trap cropping may work with flea beetles because
they move into the field from the edges. Completely encircle
the field with glossy leaf collards or Chinese giant mustard
one to two weeks before establishing the main crop to allow the
trap crop to reach an adequate size before the crop does. Be
careful that flea beetles do not move from these trap crops to
the cash crops. It may be necessary to treat the trap crop.
- Timing of planting – fall-harvested crops only. If
uncovered brassica crops are only grown after early July and
brassica weeds have been strictly controlled, flea beetle pressure
will be minimal on these late brassica crops.
- Crop rotation. Avoid planting spring crops close to last
fall's plantings, especially near woody or shrubby borders. Plant
late brassicas (those planted after mid June) in a different
field from spring brassicas so that summer adults emerging from
spring crops do not attack new late summer plantings.
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
-
Since flea beetles can recolonize rapidly, especially on
sunny days, frequent treatment with any material may be required.
It is advisable to treat all brassicas in the field to reduce
influx from untreated areas.
- Growers have noted good control with
rotenone (currently, no rotenone products are on the OMRI
approved list).
- Research trials have indicated that spinosad can be effective,
though results are variable (1 good, 3 fair and 3 poor results).
Pyganic™ has also shown variable results (1 good,
3 fair, 1 poor) even with high rates.
- Neem products are similarly effective (2 fair, 2 poor results).
Please see the neem chapter for a discussion of the different
types of neem products.
- Capsaicin gives some control (45% in one study). The product,
Miller’s Hot Sauce is OMRI-approved and labeled for use
on crop plants as a mammal repellant. If so used, it will also
reduce flea beetle damage.
Onion Thrips (Thrips tabaci)
Onion thrips View
photo 1.9 can be a severe pest on many crops, including
cabbage. On some cabbage varieties their feeding causes bronze
discolorations View
photo 1.10. Many cabbage varieties have high
levels of tolerance/resistance. The key to control of thrips
on cabbage is to use a tolerant variety. A list of varieties
and their tolerance can be seen at the Cornell Management Guidelines
(Cornell 2004) in the cabbage chapter.
Cultural Control:
- Avoid susceptible varieties.
- Since onion thrips often migrate into cabbage from surrounding
fields of wheat, oats and alfalfa, separating cabbage fields
from these crops will help reduce the potential infestation.
- Avoid planting onions close to brassicas, because the same
species of thrips attacks both crops.
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
Spinosad
(1 good, 6 fair, and 2 poor control in recent studies).
One of the most important measures in disease
control is to start with healthy plants. While this seems obvious,
disease symptoms can be easily overlooked. Sources of pathogens
include infested seed, debris from previous infected plantings,
and infected weeds for transplants grown outdoors. Many growers
use transplants for brassica crops. If using transplants, it is
important to make certain that the plants are disease-free. One
way to do this is to grow your own transplants, so that they can
be inspected weekly for disease symptoms. If plants are purchased
commercially, be certain to carefully check transplants for disease
symptoms before planting.
Diseases caused by bacteria
Black Rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris)
Infected plants develop yellow to tan V-shaped lesions at the leaf
margins View
photo 1.11. The pathogen frequently will enter the
plant through pores on the leaf margin, and spread systemically.
Within the yellow lesion, veins can become black. The bacterium
can survive on seeds, and in infected crop debris. Black rot
is common in seedlings, but plants can be infected at any age.
The pathogen can be spread by splashing water, workers moving
from an infected field to a healthy field, insects or animals
and on transplants. Because the disease can be seed-borne, it
is important to inspect all greenhouse transplants for black
rot. Systemically infected seedlings will become yellow, drop
lower leaves and may die. Any yellowing plants or plants with
V-shaped lesions should not be planted in the field as they will
serve as a source of bacteria that may spread to other plants.
Cultural Control:
- Plant varieties with some
level of resistance/tolerance. A list of varieties and their
tolerance can be seen at the Cornell Management Guidelines (Cornell
2004) in the cabbage chapter.
- Use hot water treated seed. For cabbage and Brussels sprouts
soak seed for 25 min in 122°F water, soak for 20 min for
Chinese cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower. Precise time and
temperature control is essential to minimize damage to the
seed.
- Destroy crop debris after harvest.
- Avoid overhead irrigation.
- Use a 3-year rotation away from crucifer crops.
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
Copper
compounds can be used, but have not been effective in recent studies
(two poor results).
Head Rot (several bacteria including Psuedomonas and Erwinia spp.)
This disease is worse on broccoli, causing a rotting of the head
that starts in the center. Warm, wet conditions favor the development
of head rot.
Cultural Control:
- Use well-domed varieties.
- Harvest when heads are tight.
- Cut stalks at an angle so that water cannot collect on the
cut stalk left in the field to avoid providing bacteria a place
to become established.
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
Copper
is somewhat effective.
Alternaria leaf
spot (Alternaria brassicae, A. brassicicola, A. raphani)
The most common symptom of this disease is leaf spotting View
photo 1.12 but damping-off and damage to the flowers and seed
also occurs. Leaf lesions begin as small black dots and enlarge
to form target-like dark brown spots. Large numbers of spores are
produced and can be spread by wind and rain. These spores rarely
move farther than adjacent fields, thus infested seed is the chief
means of spread to a farm. Greenhouse transplants should be inspected
weekly for pinpoint black circular spots, as these are the first
signs of the disease.
Cultural Control:
- Use hot water treated seed.
For cabbage and Brussels sprouts soak seed for 25 min in
122°F
water, soak for 20 min for Chinese cabbage, broccoli and
cauliflower. Precise time and temperature control is essential
to minimize damage to the seed.
- Use clean transplants.
- Long rotations (3 years) without crucifer crops or cruciferous
weeds such as wild mustard.
- Destroy cull crop and crop debris after harvest.
- Plant later plantings upwind of earlier plantings.
- Allow for good air movement (i.e. wide spacings, rows parallel
to prevailing winds, not close to hedgerows).
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
Copper
compounds are labeled, but have not been effective in recent studies
(two poor results).
Blackleg (Phoma lingam)
Seedling infection may be first seen on the cotyledons or first
true leaves. Bluish lesions may appear on stems that later elongate
into light brown sunken areas with black margins and the stem
will become girdled and blackened View
photo 1.13. Inspect all greenhouse
transplants for stem lesions.
Cultural Control:
- Use hot water treated seed.
For cabbage and Brussels sprouts soak seed for 25 min in
122°F
water, soak for 20 min for Chinese cabbage, broccoli and
cauliflower. Precise time and temperature control is essential
to minimize damage to the seed.
- Use a 4-year crop rotation without crucifer crops.
- Avoid manure from livestock fed cruciferous crops.
- Eliminate cruciferous weeds.
Destroy cull crop and crop debris after harvest.
- Plant later plantings upwind of earlier plantings.
- Allow for good air movement (i.e. wide spacings, rows parallel
to prevailing winds, not close to hedgerows).
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
None
known to be effective.
Clubroot (Plasmodiophora brassicae)
The symptoms of clubroot are seen below ground before any symptoms
appear on the above ground plant. Infected roots enlarge to form
galls View
photo 1.14. Severely distorted roots are unable to absorb
water and minerals and the top growth is later stunted with yellow
lower leaves. The disease overwinters as resting spores in the
soil. Transplants should be checked for clubroot symptoms and
destroyed if found.
Cultural Control:
- Attain soil pH above 7.2
and high calcium and magnesium levels.
- Rotate infested fields out of brassicas for a minimum of
7 years.
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
None
known to be effective.
Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica)
First symptoms are seen as discolored spots on the cotyledons,
which can be a source of spores and later turn yellow and die.
Discrete yellow areas on the upper surface of leaves and fluffy,
white pathogen growth on the undersurface appears later. Irregular
black spots develop on broccoli. The affected areas enlarge and
turn tan and papery under moist conditions View
photo 1.15. Spores
overwinter in the soil and on crop debris.
Cultural Control:
- Use a 3- year rotation without
crucifer crops.
- Avoid overhead irrigation.
- Allow for good air movement (i.e. wide spacings, rows parallel
to prevailing winds, not close to hedgerows).
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
Copper
compounds.
White Mold (Sclerotinia sclerotiorum)
White mold is a fungal disease caused by Sclerotina sclerotiorum,
which has a very wide host range including tomatoes, eggplants,
peppers, beans, carrots, lettuce, cole crops and many weeds.
Early symptoms are water soaked lesions followed by a rotting
of stem tissue or entire head of cabbage View
photo 1.16. Later
a pure white fungal growth will appear and hard, black sclerotia
(overwintering structures of the fungus) often develop in this
growth View
photo 1.17. These sclerotia will survive in the soil
for several years. This disease is worse on heavy soils with
poor drainage.
Cultural Control:
- Use raised beds and install
drainage tiles to improve drainage if necessary.
- Rotation is difficult because so many crops and weeds are
hosts and the sclerotia are very long-lived in the soil. Four
years of cereal crops or sweet corn will likely work if weed
hosts are controlled.
Avoid excessive irrigation.
- Avoid over crowding and weeds that prevent air circulation
in the field.
Materials Approved for Organic Production:
Coniothyrium
minitans (Contans™). Contans is a fungus that
once applied and incorporated into the soil, attacks and destroys
the white mold sclerotia. Contans™ is applied at or before
planting time. It is dissolved into water and sprayed directly
onto the soil surface. Contans™ should be applied after
a crop with high levels of white mold infection to reduce survival
of the sclerotia.
References
Cornell 2004. Integrated Crop & Pest Management Guidelines
for Commercial Vegetable Production. http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/recommends/ Cornell Cooperative Extension.
Diver, S. 1998. Nature Farming and Effective Microorganisms.
http://www.nationalwatercenter.org/natfarm.htm
Weeden, C.R., A.M. Shelton, Y. Li, M. P. Hoffman. 2004. Biological
Control: a Guide to Natural Enemies in North America. Cornell University.
http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/biocontrol/
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