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Ask the Plant Doctors


"What's wrong with these plants?" is a phrase gardeners ask themselves every summer.
Often, with a little common sense and some keen observation, it is easy to find the answer!
The following is a guideline that home gardeners may find useful in diagnosing problems.

Diagnosing Vegetable Problems
By: Dr. Steven Reiners, Department of Horticultural Sciences

 

Identify the symptoms.
  • Are the leaves yellow or browning? Is it worse on the leaf edges or in the middle of the leaf?
  • Are older or younger leaves showing symptoms?
  • Are there spots on leaves and stems? Are these spots of a uniform size or are they of many different shapes and sizes?
  • Is only the upper of lower surface of leaves showing symptoms or both tops and bottoms?
  • Are plants wilting
Determine if there is a pattern to the symptoms.
  • Do all the plants show symptoms or is it crop specific, i.e. only the tomatoes and not the beans?
  • Does the problem seem worse on the garden's edge or is it uniform throughout?
  • Do the affected plants sit above a low spot, poor drainage area, or an area with obviously compacted soil? Does the pattern correlate with current field operations?
Trace the problem's history.
  • When were symptoms first noticed?
  • What rates of fertilizer and lime were used?
  • What pesticides and/or herbicides were used?
  • What were the weather conditions like before you noticed the problems -- cool or warm, wet or dry, windy, cloudy, sunny?
Examine the plant carefully to determine if the problem seems to be caused by insects, diseases or management practices.
  • Insects: Look for their presence or feeding signs on leaves, stems and roots. Sometimes it's easier to find insects early in the morning or toward evening.
  • Disease: Look for dead areas on roots, leaves, stems and flowers. Are the plants wilting even though soil moisture is plentiful? Are the leaves spotted or yellowed? Are there any signs of bacterial or fungal growth (soft rots, mildew, spores, etc.)? Look for virus symptoms the plants stunted or do they have obvious growth malformations? Are all the plants showing symptoms, or are just a few scattered around the field?
Could there be nutritional problems? The table at the right is a list of characteristic deficiency symptoms for the major and minor nutrients.
Nutrient Symptoms
Nitrogen Light green or yellow older foliage.
Phosphorus Stunted plants and purplish leaves.
Potassium Brown leaf margins and leaf curling.
Calcium Stunted plants, stubby roots. (Causes blossom end rot of tomatoes, tip burn of cabbage, brownheart of escarole, celery blackheart, carrot cavity spot).)
Magnesium Yellowing between veins of older leaves.
Sulfur Yellowing of hew leaves, stunted plants.
Boron Growing points die back and leaves are distorted.
Copper Yellowing of leaves which become thin and elongated, causes soft onion bulb with thin scales.
Iron Light green or yellow foliage on youngest leaves.
Zinc Rust-colored spots on seed leaves of beans, green and yellow striping of corn, yellowing of beet leaves.
Manganese Mottled yellow area appearing on younger leaves first. In beets, foliage becomes deeply red.
Molybdenum Distorted, narrow leaves, some yellowing of older leaves; whiptail leaf symptoms in cauliflower.

 

 Could there be a nutrient toxicity?
  • Soluble salt injury may be seen as wilting of the plant even when soil is wet.
  • Burning on leaf edges could be a sign of chlorine damage -- are symptoms worse near a pool?
  • Have wood ashes been applied to the garden? Using more than 5 pounds per 100 square feet can dramatically increase soil pH which can result in both nutritional deficiencies and toxicities.
Could soil problems be to blame?
  • Soil problems such as compaction and poor drainage can severely stunt plants.
  • Are gutter emptying water into the garden keeping the soil too wet?
Could pesticide injury be at fault?
  • Were any insecticides or fungicides applied. Remember, copper and sulfur fungicides can burn plants if applied in hot weather.
  • Broadleaf weed killers applied to lawns can cause abnormal growth or even kill many garden plants nearby. Tomatoes are especially sensitive. Beware of using a lawn clipping mulch which may have residual herbicide.
Could the damage be caused by environmental conditions?
  • Have temperatures been excessively high or low? Plants that die practically overnight may have been touched by frost.
  • Has it been very dry or wet for extended periods?
  • Have strong winds caused the damage?
  • Don't overlook air pollution. Ozon levels may rise as hot, humid weather settles in for long stretches. Look for irregularly shaped spots which may look similar to feeding of mites and certain leafhoppers. Ozone flecks are usually concentrated in specific areas of the leaf, while feeding damage from insects is spread uniformly across the leaf
 
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